The final gripping installment…
So, the drive between Jackson, Mississippi, and New Orleans is around two-and-a-half hours, apparently. yet the travel company who’d booked the trip for myself and the two other journalists who were heading down to Louisiana had, in their wisdom, booked two flights for us instead – an hour long one back to Houston (WILDLY wrong direction) and then another hour and 15 minute flight from Houston to New Orleans. Now, regardless of how much I dislike flying anyway, this was just a logistical pain in the arse. Add the fact that one of the journalists ended up almost having a fight with a grouchy local on the tiny jet taking us to Houston (“I’ll send you back to the UK in a body bag” was the line, apparently) and you have something that can, at least, be described as an intresting experience.
Fortunately, we were treated like kings in New Orleans by the local tourist board, which made up for the travel inconvenience and then some. Huge sedan to meet us at the airport, glorious hotel – the Ritz Carlton executive area, with complimentary drinks, food any hour of the day, wow. This was a tiny glimpse into how the other half live and very bloody enjoyable it was too.
The tour we were given of New Orleans was predictably affecting. Considering the fact that we only had a day and a few hours there, really, to have a knowledgeable local show us around was fascinating. And, thankfully, despite the desire to sell New Orleans as a tourist city open for business, there was a willingness to show us areas like the Ninth Ward, which are still pretty devastated by Katrina. As ever, the disparity of a city’s financial areas was really jarring. From the ruined houses and derelict land of the Ninth Ward, you drive five minutes up the road and you’re surroundedby some of the most gorgeous huge Southern houses you could possibly imagine. Obviously, the levees were higher there…
The building projects we saw were inspiring, though, especially since the new houses were actually being built with an architectural eye on making them fit with the older houses in the area, trying to keep the distinctive character of the region alive. Also uplifting was the musician’s village, New Orleans being such a music town, and so many of them being displaced in Katrina, that a new suburb has been built purely for the musicians. What a great idea.
I’m hardly making an original point here but New Orleans really is a characterful city with a feel like nowhere else I’ve been in the States. The French Quarter has roughly the same bohemian feel of Greenwich Village in New York, but Bourbon St was surprisingly skanky, which shocked me a little.
Still, the meal we had in the evening was wonderful, even though everyone on the trip seem completely befuddled by my vegeterianism. They obviously don’t do that in the south. I’ve never eaten so many salads. The tourist board representative and her husband were great company and then we finished the evening, and the trip, off with a trip to a jazz club. Well, you have to, don’t you?
Six flights in five days. I was back in Heathrow by 9.30 on Friday morning. A ludicrous trip. And, of course, I couldn’t sleep on the flight back so felt wretched. But, the whole thing was an absolute highlight. Everyone we met was hugely helpful and inspiringly friendly. The type of fresh experience that slaps you across the face, wakes you up and makes life worth living.
Just wish the films on Continental were better, that’s all. 😉
Fats Domino’s house in the Ninth Ward.
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I really enjoyed reading about your trip Rob. Sounds like such an adventure, you certainly covered a few miles there!
Thanks Emily. It was great. I think I could handle doing this type of thing for a living full time, especially if you get put up in the Ritz Carlton wherever you stay. That helps.